BEIJING, Oct15 - I may not have any luggage, and may be short a day or two's worth of sleep, but I had an absolutely awesome time this morning in the Temple of Heaven park. Lemme tell ya about it.... ;-)
Temple of Heaven, or Tiantan, is a large park just southwest of Tiananmen Square. It was used twice a year as the place where the Emperor would commune with Heaven in rites intended to improve the coming harvest. After the end of the monarchy, it became a public area, open year around, and is the largest greenspace in Beijing.
Tiantan has architecture, sure, but what's really interesting for me is the wild kaleidoscope of physical activity each morning... thousands of people doing Tai Chi, shuttlecocks and hackysack and paddleball, singing and musicians and ballroom dancing, fan and sword and ribbon dancers, people walking their birdcages, many many more.
A few years ago I hurt my knee, started using a cane, and it taught me so much that I still use it on the street. The cane also brought me into the "skill arts" world, which includes juggling, hula hoops, rope work, and similar awareness/dexterity skills. One of the goals of this trip to Beijing was to learn more about the Tiantan culture of physical skills -- last trip I was blown away when I saw my first rope dart practitioner -- and I lucked out on the very first day of this trip.
I heard a cracking sound in the distance, and assumed it was construction work. But the rhythm was off, and then I wondered whether someone was setting off firecrackers. But the rhythm wasn't right here either. Peering through the trees I saw it, and as I drew closer I understood what I was seeing. Someone had a long wooden staff, about as tall as your eyebrows, and on the end was three feet of chain, and tied to this was maybe four feet of rope, and on the end of this was a smaller strip of leather. It was a staff-whip, like a bullwhip with gradually decreasing mass down the length of the instrument. The practitioner would get it moving in a certain direction and then reverse direction. As the change in acceleration migrated down the whip, the parts of lighter mass would increase speed to match. The result was that the leather cracker on the end would be travelling at supersonic speed, breaking the sound barrier with a loud crack.
And that wasn't all, these guys had a bundle of toys! Three-sectional cane (like a three-piece nunchaku, only longer), Nine-Section Whip (a chain of nine sections, about four foot long -- if you saw Jet Li in Fist of Legend, he used Jiu Jian Bian techniques with a leather belt against a katana sword at the climax), rope dart and meteor hammer (fifteen foot rope with a half-pound knife or metal ball on the end, used against armor -- Jackie Chan in Shanghai Noon used a rope and a horseshoe), monkeyballs (like two poi tied together, or a 4-6 foot rope with a light weight on each end), diabolos ("Chinese Top" or "Chinese Yo-Yo", controlled by a string tied between two rods)... each had their own bag full of cheap homemade tools.
They were very approachable too... within 15 minutes we were showing each other moves, which is extra remarkable considering how shy I usually am. I could tell some of them had longterm training from their leg movements, the casual and graceful way they manipulated the tools.
One had an odd momentum move with my cane... he balanced it off-center against the back of his thumb, crook high and foot low, then kept it in dynamic balance through a flowing Figure-Eight motion. It would be a very nice addition to the set of Nate Leipzig "Grips With a Cane" that I'm trying to rediscover, a magnetic effect.
Another move he tried to teach me is spinning a double-weighted rope as a staff... keeping the momentum in each weight balanced enough that the rope is always straight between them. He could do wrist rolls and high-tosses while spinning this way. I've seen it done in some of the "Chinese Acrobatics" videos you can buy in SF's Chinatown, but he gave me some tips on grip and timing that may help me to finally get it, once I put in enough practice.... ;-)
We spent about an hour, stretching, spinning, watching, laughing... I really appreciated their generosity, and hope they won't mind if I come back each day this week.
Elsewhere in the park I saw an instrument that was new to me, a whole group of people doing sword work with a long tassel on the end. The tassel was kept in motion similar to a poi. I know of the tradition with a Horsetail Whisk (used by guards who could not carry blades... a very soft horsehair instrument could neutralize an attack) but this seemed a little different... if the whisk was replaced with a flail you'd have an impact weapon for armor, and also a blade for close-in defense. They used both forward and reverse grips while manipulating the sword, wrapping the tassel around the body for directional changes. Very difficult to keep both the rigid sword and the soft tassel in graceful motion simultaneously.
The whole scene reminded me of a bluegrass festival or music camp, only moreso... over here you had a group of pipa players (double-horned flute with a gourd resonator), over there a half-dozen erhu players (two-string fiddle), sometimes playing the same tune... lots of people playing cards or Chinese Chess... and then all the physical activity too. I've never seen anything to match the Temple of Heaven on any morning of the week.
UPDATE - The above was written after my first day here. I was in Beijing five mornings, and managed to make it to Tiantan four of those days. Always hung out with the same group of folks, it was quite collegial.
On one of the weekends we were joined by two 20-somethings, a guy with very precise and powerful throws with a ten-foot rope dart, and a woman who worked with one and two leather bullwhips. She tried to learn the Meteor Hammers at one point, using a metal set, and conked herself in the head, before switching to a practice set with rope and weighted rubber balls.
Speaking of which, what is the name? I asked them, and she wrote it down for me... I don't have Chinese input on this machine yet, but the Pinyin was Shuang Liu Xing, or Double Wandering/Flow Star. We often translate this as "Meteor", but I think I like "Shooting Star" better. The Shuang signifies a doubly-weighted rope. After doing some searches that night I think one of my teachers, coincidentally named Mr. Liu, may have been captured onto YouTube doing some demonstrations... once I get beyond The Great Firewall I'll be able to see if it's him.
The same day two Israeli tourists stopped by. One of them had done some Poi work, and had never thought of using a single rope. She did some Butterfly and Behind-the-Head Butterfly that the others soon attempted. She was all butt and boobs and bellybutton and was the star of the show, but the Whip Lady smiled as she watched her too.
They all got a kick out of the set I had improvised, a few small silk bags, filled with small bars of hotel soap, tied shut around a hole-in-the-center coin at each end of a six-foot cord. It's lighter than even their practice sets, takes a little more trouble to handle cleanly.
Big thing I came away with from the week was that I have to work on my footwork more. Many of the Ba Gua Zhang videos I've watched have emphasized the palms (upper body) combining with the stances (lower body). These folks were dancing within the rope spheres they threw.
Later I wondered at the difference between their single-weight & long cord work ("rope dart") vs their double-weight and short cord work ("meteor")... in the first they focused on wraps and sudden releases, always working in a straight line, forward and back. With the double weights they did fewer wraps (reasonably enough) but also did a lot more horizontal orbits, with the weight shooting forth at a variety of angles. Maybe it's due to competition technique, where the dart's wraps and releases are complex enough that they strip away the extra melee-type swinging. The Japanese Kusarifundo techniques (aka manriki) use an even shorter double-weighted chain, and also seem to work at a variety of angles. Then again, I didn't see any of the "fast tying" (hayainawa? sp) techniques of Maasaki Hatsumi, where he would tangle an attacker up in a 10-15' unweighted rope and winch the limbs together. Each tradition seems to have its own emphases.
One morning I saw someone doing Ba Gua Zhang whirling circles with a pair of Deer Horn Knives... these are wicked curved blades, points and edges everywhere, scary. He also had a rope dart, but didn't use it while I was watching... wonder how he would have moved when combining circular techniques with rope.
Another oddity is the hula hoop. I saw these for sale on the streets of Beijing, but never saw anyone using them in the park. Later, in Xi'an, I saw teenage girls using them, in the straight around-the-waist techniques, probably for improved self-image. I didnt see any of the more advanced hooping popular in San Francisco, at least not yet.
There's a park in one of the oldest sections of town that seems dedicated to the Diabolo. ("Diabolo" is the English name given to the Chinese Top family... one version is like a large Yo-Yo with the two halves turned around to make it concave in the middle... you play it with two thin sticks with a string tied to the ends.) This is in Xuanwu, south of the city wall, west of Qianmen. I had chosen it for the cabbie's convenience when finally escaping Beijing West Station. There are many friezes on the wall surrounding the park, showing someone in Qing dress doing Diabolo tricks. There's also a dedicated "Diabolo Area" in the park. That's all I know about it. Pretty cool, though.
Long entry. I'll put notes from other towns in a separate entry. But I was very happy to be able to partake of the whole riotous Tiantan scene for a few mornings, and to be accepted by a nice bunch of folks specializing in rope work.